Last Day in Napoli
February 8th 2008 15:39
Just as we're about to leave, the city has started to grow on me... perhaps it was seeing a succession of lavish squares, this grandoise mall, huge classical structures and more art than you can cast an eye upon. And did I mention there was more art than is humanly possible to take in?
Today we started with the Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace) which had room after room of darkly coloured paintings set on fabric which covered all the walls, in red, or yellow, or dark blue. They had magnificently painted doors, with angels and animals adorning the gold paint, and I was also quite impressed with the decorative vases, which often had pretty representations of everyday life on them. My favourite was the writing room, which had a little library, a big desk and two brown marble cases with elegant white decorations upon it flanking it on each side.
It was time for foccacia and hot chocolate, both of which were terrific even though we were right close to some main attractions and Lonely Planet had warned us to avoid eateries that catered towards a tourist crowd. I do enjoy breaking the rules. ,o)
We decided to trade in our sophistication with buses from our suburb to the centro for the knowledge of a random taxi driver who took us to the Capodimonte Museum, which was once a palace. Tired like you wouldnāt believe from walking already, we dragged our feet along two giant floors full of art, and still left one unseen. The highlights for me were a Caravaggio, a few Titzianos, and a few random artists whose names Iāve already forgotten... On the first floor there was the portrait of a gentleman with a long face and dark aqua eyes, with light hair and a long beard. His face, beard and red hat contrasted greatly with his black cloak, and the black background. On the sencond floor it was an elaborate scene of a woman reaching out to a young boy for grapes, while beneath her all kinds of fruit lay half-opened. I was particularly impressed with the representations of a watermelon and a pomegranate, though the melons, grapes and apples were also great. She had colourful and windswept clothes, and had her back facing the audience. This after whole rooms of Caravaggio-inspired Neopolitan artists with black backgrounds and pale faces. Its placement couldnāt be more refreshing.
I glimpsed a one or two postmodern skyscrapers on the way back from the museum, mingled with the modernist high-rises that made up the small CBD area somewhere close to the centro, which made me happy.
My parents have gone to check out the local laundromat, and Iām gaily perusing the internet which is 5 euros per hour.
Did you know Napoli means 'New City'?
Tomorrow we're going back to Roma, but not without spending a few hours in Caserta, a small town on the way, which looks fabulous.
I wish you well, wherever you are,
Epiphanie
Today we started with the Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace) which had room after room of darkly coloured paintings set on fabric which covered all the walls, in red, or yellow, or dark blue. They had magnificently painted doors, with angels and animals adorning the gold paint, and I was also quite impressed with the decorative vases, which often had pretty representations of everyday life on them. My favourite was the writing room, which had a little library, a big desk and two brown marble cases with elegant white decorations upon it flanking it on each side.
We decided to trade in our sophistication with buses from our suburb to the centro for the knowledge of a random taxi driver who took us to the Capodimonte Museum, which was once a palace. Tired like you wouldnāt believe from walking already, we dragged our feet along two giant floors full of art, and still left one unseen. The highlights for me were a Caravaggio, a few Titzianos, and a few random artists whose names Iāve already forgotten... On the first floor there was the portrait of a gentleman with a long face and dark aqua eyes, with light hair and a long beard. His face, beard and red hat contrasted greatly with his black cloak, and the black background. On the sencond floor it was an elaborate scene of a woman reaching out to a young boy for grapes, while beneath her all kinds of fruit lay half-opened. I was particularly impressed with the representations of a watermelon and a pomegranate, though the melons, grapes and apples were also great. She had colourful and windswept clothes, and had her back facing the audience. This after whole rooms of Caravaggio-inspired Neopolitan artists with black backgrounds and pale faces. Its placement couldnāt be more refreshing.
My parents have gone to check out the local laundromat, and Iām gaily perusing the internet which is 5 euros per hour.
Did you know Napoli means 'New City'?
Tomorrow we're going back to Roma, but not without spending a few hours in Caserta, a small town on the way, which looks fabulous.
I wish you well, wherever you are,
Epiphanie
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Comment by Tracy
Movies and Life
It sounds like a great trip. I also found that Naples grew on me after a while.
Oh and I agree about breaking the Lonely Planet's rules at times!
Have fun,
Tracy
Comment by postmoderncritic
Postmodern Critic
Daily Inspirations
Relativity Watch
Padsoc
Thankfully my conception of Naples changed when we were taken out of the Stazione Centrala area by our touring schedule (sadly, with my parents I have no choice but to be a tourist, not a traveler). I can now think of it as a city of contrasts.
But you know, we didnāt see much garbage piled up, although we did see a suspicious fire on the street near our hotel one night (the residents are burning their waste themselves)... we saw a lot more garbage outside Sorrento, and the most in Caserta.
LP is good in that it encourages its readers not to go strictly by their guidebooks, but itās still nice to discover that taking what looks like an unfavourable decision can turn out very well indeed!
Buongiorno to you - when did you go to Naples, and how long were you there?