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Day 2 (or is it 3?) in Bangkok

October 22nd 2009 09:13
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Bangkok is more frenzied yet more calm than Sydney... it's an amazing paradox - people have more stressful physical conditions (pollution, heat, traffic, economic hardship, working hours) to work with, yet they manage to exude calm at almost all times. Walking back to my accommodation yesterday, I was on a street busier than many in Sydney, yet the people weren't walking as fast as Sydneysiders do - theirs was a gradual progression. Even as the traffic raged on and encroached the pedestrians space in the form of tuk-tuks, morocycles and cars clambering onto the sidewalk, the people kept their cool and drifted, unfazed, on.


*

I didn't have to wait long to encounter my first classic case of cultural misunderstanding - in fact, it happened as I was waiting in the air conditioned bus scheduled to depart for the neighbourhood of Pratunam, where I spent my first two nights. Two other Australian girls had made it upon the creme-de-cafe coloured bus, and were looking for the driver, who, for whatever reason, was not in the bus at the moment. He was monitoring another man who was anxiously studying a map. One of the Aussie girls approached him:
When are you leaving? Do we have enough time for a smoke?
The man turned around, frazzled, to contemplate the reason for his distraction. "I don't know."
"How long do we wait here?" the girl tried again.
"Four days," replied the driver, clearly thinking she had picked up on the fact that his task in the vehicle was to learn from the more experienced driver.
"We stay here for four days." the girl deadpanned.
"I don't know," came the bemused and wide-eyed reply from the man who was beginning to suspect he didn't know what the girl was talking about after all.

*


I have missed Asia! The beautiful colours and clothing designs! The delicious, inexpensive meals! The subtle sense of spirituality that permeates everyday activity!

A few hours ago I left the Baiyoke Suite Hotel, with its abstract art in the lobby, concierges and two exits, muted colour scheme and 'American buffet breakfasts' for something more modest, cheerful, and culturally authentic. If you've been reading my previous posts you will know that I'm referring to The Artists' Place, run by watercolour artist Charlee. Charlee has a wife and an assistant. The guesthouse is charming, and I wish I had known about it when I came to Bangkok in 2005... My room key has a wooden phallus on the keyring - a playful hint of sleaze.

I have to admit to not being culture shocked at all - if I wasn't waiting for my boyfriend I probably wouldn't spend too much time here. For all my good intentions to visit the art galleries, the traffic is so offputting that I have decided to delay sightseeing for today as well, and get to know the area better.

I'm currently in the foyer of a bigger hotel nearby, where the rate of charge for the net is 20 baht per hour. That's about 60 Australian cents. There's some beautiful art here, and one of the tables doubles as an aquarium! I could spend a lot of time here, and I probably will...
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